New York – Erie Canal – The Western Half – Tim & Martha's trip around the Great Loop

Baldwinsville: Traveling the road less traveled. Today we came to the crossroad on the Erie Canal. Go north on the Oswego Canal towards Canada or continue west on the Erie Canal. Most loopers choose the Oswego Canal to Canada because of the wonderful cruising waters (so I’m told) in Canada. Height restrictions (15’6″ max) on the Western half of the Erie Canal is also big factor. We decided to complete the Erie Canal this time as we can visit Canada another summer in a couple of years.

Amphitheater on an island between the locks and the spillway for the rest of the water.

Our cruising to Baldwinsville was slow, but enjoyable. We didn’t see much marine traffic so it felt kind of lonely. We arrived at the final lock before our destination. This lock was located in the very heart of the town. The free wall was located just beyond the lock and was a welcome sight and only had 3 boats tied up–plenty of room. (only $10 a night). We met a boat captain who has traveled these waters and gave us lots of information about the area. We ate at the local Angry Smokehouse (a BBQ place) and later in the day a local diner for dessert. Not a lot to see, but fun to see a lock working in the center of town. Later that day, the lock master gave Tim a tour of the gadgets he uses to lock boats thru the lock–very interesting. We also noticed a “looking to hire” sign–maybe a possible opportunity in the future.

The Lock master was proud of his equipment, more than 100 years old. the lock masters are also charged with maintaining the 100yr old equipment and the canal system has a machine shop to custom build all the gear and parts they need to repair things that break. they also need to keep all the solid brass controls shiny.

Cayuga Lake/Allan Truman State Park: Posted speed on canal: 10mph/5mph if near docks or marinas. It took 5 hours for us to reach Lockview Marina even while racing the coming storm. This is a side trip off the Erie Canal. The wind was blowing most of the day, but we managed to get thru the final lock into Cayuga Lake before the rain started. The Lockview Marina was 1/4 mile from the lock so we ended up docking in the rain and wind. Within a half hour of docking the storm had passed and things calmed down. The depth gauge said 4’2″ — we need 4′.

**Remains of an aqueduct that carried the original canal OVER the river**

This lake has an invasive weed that is everywhere and apparently worse this year. The shallower ends of the lake are the worst, but we made it to the State Park in Ithaca the following day for a 4 night stay. The park was/is older but very quiet and nice. Only a few other transient boaters around us. Richard Stevens (a Weta sailer) met us at the park and we had lunch at the Ithaca Bakery (like Panera only better). Later we biked around town. The next day we at hiked Taughannock Falls State Park. Our GPS took us to the top of the falls — we hiked halfway down where Tim went back up to the top for the car and I continued to the bottom. (my legs were shaking by the time I reached the bottom…very steep). We then hiked the trail along the river to the falls. This area is so beautiful. Later that day we were treated to dinner at Richard’s house. Also joining us was Melissa, Richards wife, Keith (a Weta sailor friend) and another couple. A very enjoyable evening was had by all.

Sunday Richard took us out on his Rapido 40, Runtime. We spent an afternoon sailing on Lake Ontario on this trimaran. We were joined by Richard’s son, Danny, and his friend Clark. I think we sailed about 15 miles out into the lake and back. Sure is different sailing than on our Nordic Tug.

Monday we drove to Corning Museum of Glass. Glass is an amazing product and in so many things. I never knew how many things are made of glass. That afternoon we drove to Watkins Glen, another beautiful waterfall. The pictures don’t show how beautiful and amazing this gorge was/is. Tim climbed all the way to the top, me about halfway.

Lyons: another long day of cruising. This town was formerly known as the Peppermint Capital of the World. Patti (aka Peppermint Patti) gave us a tour of the museum and the history of how peppermint grew this town. The local fire station offered the use of their bathrooms and showers free of charge. There weren’t many restaurants opened the day we arrived, but we did find a Mexican restaurant that had good food. This town is a very sleepy town.

**The Peppermint museum. We had our own Private tour. Normally only open on the weekends Patti will come anytime for boaters and give a tour. A two hour tour.**

Newark: Short day of cruising. Free: dockage, electric, water and LAUNDRY. A very nice place to stay for 2 nights. Walked around the small town, toured the Hoffman clock museum located in the town library. Tried to learn more about e-bikes at the bike shop, but the salesperson wasn’t very helpful. Stayed an extra day for some R&R and farmers market Thursday evening. Ice cream shop located right across the street from our dock. First night there were 5-6 boats docked on the wall. The second night, just Margin. Watched and experienced a thunderstorm Thursday night.

Fairport: The locals call this town a destination city for the surrounding areas. Restaurants, bars, distilleries and lots of fun shops. Ate out twice in one day–not good for the diet. $14 to dock for the night. Cool lift bridge right behind our boat. We were able to walk to the farmers market before leaving for our next dockage.

**The bridge is unique in the fact that 1)it crosses the river at an angle. 2) One end is higher than the other. 3) One side is higher than the other. 4) It moves strait up and down 10′**. You are allowed to walk across the bridge while it is up. I mentioned I thought this was strange to the bridge operator. He said when it was built in 1912-13 it was left up all day for all the barge traffic and and only lowered a couple of times a day for a horse and wagon if needed.

Spencerport: Long day of cruising at about 7mph due to more docks/boats on the canal. Snagged a good spot on the south wall close to the bathrooms. Again no charge to stay here. Walked around this area surrounding the dockage area. Not much, but a grocery store about 2 blocks away–that’s a first!! and so convenient. Met a couple who are live aboards for the last 5 years. Thoroughly enjoyed talking to them about their lives on a boat.

Holley: Sleeping town. There were a few boats that stopped for a few hours, but otherwise Margin was the only boat overnight on the wall. Most of our company were families fishing off the wall. As you can see from the pictures the Erie Canal is higher than the land around it. We walked down to a pretty waterfall which was really runoff from the canal. The town has made a nice park around the waterfall. We followed a path from the waterfall which led back up to the canal where the water originated. We had lunch at Sam’s diner in town which was about the only open place to eat except pizza. Not much happening in this town, but a nice quiet place to spend the night. FYI: nice bathroom & shower facilities

**The waterfront park at Holley. It’s not often you get to take a picture of your boat in the water from BELOW the boat.**

**These valves control water leaving the Canal**

Medina: Another sleepy town, but the “harbor” is really wide. The wall on one side of the harbor is very unique as you can see from the pictures. We walked around the harbor walls which is also part of the canal trail. The town has some very interesting buildings, but most of the downtown only exhibits its past glory. We did find a nice place to eat: Zambistro Restaurant. A little pricey, but worth it! We enjoyed dinner from the second floor rooftop overlooking the canal. Again, Margin was the only boat docked for the night on this wall.

Between Holley and Medina much of the canal is higher than the surrounding farm land. In fact at one point we crossed OVER a road. In 1825 running the road under the canal as easier and cheaper than bringing in enough wheelbarrows of dirt to build up the road to put in a bridge

**There are many cool old buildings in Medina. It was a canal town but also discovered during the building of the canal was Medina Sandstone which was quarried here and shipped around the world**.

**Unfortunately it was closed while we were there. I guess we will have to come back.**

Lockport: The Flight of 5 (old) or double lock (new). This was a first for us as this was a double lock meaning we entered the first lock which was filled by the next ascending lock. Once the doors between the locks opened, we moved into the 2nd lock which was filled like normal. Once we exited the 2nd lock we made a 180 degree turn into the beginning of the spillway and docked for the night. It was really cool to be at the lock that day/night. John, the lock master, was the best. He shared so much information about the lock and always seem to have time for us. The flight of 5, which is now the spillway, are the old locks used when the canals were first built. You can see from the pictures how amazing they were and what an amazing engineering marvel it really was. I find it so interesting that the locks on the Erie Canal are so people friendly. You can even walk on the catwalks (doors) of the locks. This lock was blessed by volunteers who tend to the many flowers that dot the whole area making it visually pleasing to the eye vs just a concrete jungle. Of course we found the ice cream store which was right by the lock. There wasn’t a ton to see, but by far, this lock was the most impressive along with the flight of 5 running parallel to it. We did find the bar “Stooges” where Tim had a stuffed (fettuccinne Alfredo) Chicken Sandwich,,,,mmmm good!!!

Original “Flight of 5” locks built in the 1820’s to raise the call 60 feet up a solid rock bluff. Two sets of locks were carved out of the rock, side by side, for traffic simultaneously in both directions. When the canal was enlarged the second time in 1910’s one set of 5 was replaced with two large locks that raise boats 25′ each

**After our travels up the two locks we did a 180 turn and stayed tied up right next to the top lock**. **Right in the middle of town**

**The original locks, now a spillway to allow the river above to flow even when the locks are not using water**

**They know how to do flowers at these locks!**

We went to a restaurant that served stuffed burgers. I ordered the Chicken Alfredo Sandwich, never dreaming they had stuffed the chicken with fettuccine noodles.

Tonawanda: Party City. We passed a few more sleepy towns on our way to Tonawanda. We arrived on Wednesday and docked on the south wall as we told there was laundry here at the dock masters office. We were thankful to have docked on the south side wall as we later found out that Wednesday is concert night on the north side. By the evening, there were boats lined up & rafting up on all the walls. The south wall was less busy, but still had plenty of boats. And the music was loud. But due to the approaching thunderstorm, the concert was cancelled about halfway through. Thursday was the south wall turn. Concert in the park with food trucks for dinner selection. There wasn’t a lot to see in this area, but all the entertainment was nice. Also nice bathroom facilities and coin laundry in dock masters office area. We have now completed the entire length of the current version of the Erie Canal. One more lock to go.

**Turn Left on the Niagara river to Buffalo. A right turn would take us to Niaagra Falls**

Buffalo: Upon leaving Tonawanda we entered the Niagara River–lots of current. The river is wide which is very different than the canal. We cruised several miles until we reached the Black Rock Lock, the last lock for this loop. YEA!!! This lock enables us to bypass a section of the Niagara River that flows swiftly. Once we exited the lock there was a breakwater wall all the way down to Buffalo so we were very protected from the fast current. We arrived at the Canalside area where there was a floating dock with electric. The day was very hot and humid and just walking around we felt like we were melting—shade was a welcome site. We walked the area and read all the signs like usual. Lots of people were out today enjoying the hot weather and in canal side district. It’s a very nice place with tours, naval ships, places to seat and socialize with friends and strangers. Buffalo has done a great job revitalizing this area. Storms at night but we were secure. Tim got his hair cut the next morning. History boat tour of the Buffalo river and learned about all the shipping industry of the river as well as the dark side of pollution/fire. The city has made great strides in cleaning up the river in the last decade. Later in the day we walked around downtown and admired all the architecture of this town—check out the pictures. Then dinner at a local bar downtown–good food. Back at the boat, getting ready to leave the Erie Canal and head west on Lake Erie.